Second time aboard Zephyr, the beloved cruising sailboat owned by my friend and captain extraordinaire Rob Pratt. Terry and I cruised with Rob two summers ago. In August each year he sails the coast of Maine for the entire month, taking four different crews for a week each.
A fortunate immersion into another world. What a contrast to life in Los Angeles. A nautical world… boat camping on the water with good food, drink, and cheer. My guitar makes its second Zephyr voyage. We sail the pristine coast, catch good winds, and access gorgeous harbors.
Day One, Saturday, August 24th — Rockland to Matinicus
Early drive up from Boston. Met Rob at the Landings Marina in Rockland at 10:00. Shopped/provisioned together, returned Enterprise rental. No Uber, so taxied back to the marina. Rob had already been cruising for three weeks… clearly loving it.
If one sails at sea, be prepared. Go with a great sailor. Rob is truly seasoned. He and his family sailed competitively for years… mostly in Lightnings. He has cruised for years. Sailing is in his blood; he knows these waters well. That’s comforting to his crew! Zephyr is a 35-foot sloop with a classy gray hull and blue water line.
Challenging it is to sail in Maine… a coastline of some 200 islands and innumerable shoals. GPS keeps us off the rocks. Thousands of lobster traps and their colorful marker buoys are scattered throughout Maine’s coastal waters. The last thing you want is to get your prop tied up in a lobster pot line… Rob keeps his scuba gear on board for such occasions.
Rob masterfully backed us out of the slip and off we went! The wind was perfect, steady and from the south: One long tack to Matinicus Isle… 20 miles off shore. It’s the farthest inhabited island on the East Coast of America. First night aboard, the sound of gentle lapping of the water against the hull, a great sleep… my best sleep in ages. The Zephyr magic!
Day Two, Sunday, August 25th — Matinicus to Monhegan
Cereal and fruit for breakfast. Dinghy ashore. No boat dock, just a scary ladder up the pier! And of course, it was low tide. I scampered up the ladder with the painter to tie up the dinghy.
Matinicus is a 2.3 square mile island with a year-round population of 53. Rob walked with me for a bit and then pointed at a pile of rock and said, “Just go there and round the point. You’ll find the airstrip and can walk back that way.”
Did so, a far more strenuous hike than I expected. Lots of rock and bouldering by myself. At last… the airstrip, its grassy runway slopes quite dramatically to the sea. Met Jennifer on the walk back, the girlfriend of a lobsterman. She said the clean waters of Matinicus makes the best-tasting lobster. So sweet in fact, that you need no butter!
Motored to Monhegan Island where we would stay for two nights. It was and still is a renowned summer retreat for artists. Lots of galleries… some classy old hotels. After mooring and taking the dinghy ashore, we quickly met a gruff local who said we’d have to pay $70 for his mooring. So we found harbormaster Sherm and paid him $40 a night for “the best mooring in the harbor.” That’s given the tides and waters within the Monhegan harbor. A little high, but it was a good spot, away from the ferries and main channel. We had two nice calm nights there.
Day Three, Monday, August 26th — Monhegan Island
Hiked Monhegan Island. Took the #1 trail all the way around the island. Lots of poison ivy, some marked… most not. Not easy hiking at all, lots of roots and rocks to scramble. The west side cliffs are majestic — Burnt Head, White Head, and Black Head; elevations 140,160, and 160 feet respectively. Found the north side of the island deserted.
After the 360 degree hike, swam a bit at Fish Beach, not to be confused with Swim Beach where no one swims! Visited the microbrewery, made some friends, and enjoyed an IPA and a bit of internet access. Dinner at the grand old Island Inn with Rob… talking energy and celebrating life!
Day Four, Tuesday, August 27th — Monhegan to Squirrel to Boothbay
Foggy morning in Monhegan; less than 50 yards of visibility at times. Motoring with radar set to 1/8th mile to be able to see other ships and avoid lobster pots. Thank goodness for modern nautical technology: With plenty of time, but miles offshore, our radar detected another ship approaching. Then quickly it sleuthed out of the fog and passed us by… too close for comfort.
Fog lifted and after a few hours we stopped at Squirrel Island… a playground for the rich at the mouth of Boothbay Harbor. Gorgeous Vineyard-like homes. An elevated walkway trail circles much of the island; the rest is a meandering coastal trail. Another short island trek under my belt.
Back to Zephyr. Sailed into Boothbay Harbor. Got mooring at Tugboat Inn Marina. Went ashore for showers ($1.25) and Wifi. Rob addressed his Solomon Island works; I ran payroll. Then lobster dinner! Good IPA. Colorful, expressive waitress named April took good care of us. Well, at least when she wasn’t flirting with the next table. The theme was Tupelo, her hometown in Mississippi. Random. Lots of laughs.
Day Five, Wednesday, August 28th — Boothbay to Five Islands
Clear skies and the winds shifted. With a better forecast, we change the plan and stay only one night at Boothbay. Fueled up (3.1 gallons of diesel only) and filled our water tanks. Bought blocks of ice and headed to Five Islands, my favorite spot from our trip two years earlier. Got there and found the lobster shack closed… oh no!
Day Six, Thursday, August 29th — Five Islands to Snow Island
Time for another walk… highly valued when sailing. Rob’s dingy service to the pier at Five Islands. Immediately met a local — Jim Faulkner — and we fell in and talked about boats and woodworking. Did a four-mile hike. Surprised that one lady drove by, stopped, rolled down her window, and offered me a ride. Far from LA indeed!
Back at Five Islands… hike rewarded: Lobster shack open for lunch! Rob came ashore and we each had a 1.5 pound lobster with corn on the cob. Yum!
Big sail in high winds (20+ knots) towards Casco Bay. Rob was in his element in the high winds! Up river we went to upper Quahog Bay to Snow Island, a hidden gem, out of the wind. The waters are warmer and the seas calmer there. We loop our bow line through a mooring without a pendant… a bit of a trick made possible by putting me in the dinghy with oars to reach the mooring. A great anchorage and another restful night.
Day Seven, Friday August 30th — Snow Island to Eagle to Jewel
Dinghy ride in the morning exploring the shores of Snow Island… the quiet Torqeedo electric motor zooming us around the still morning waters. Lots of birds, still and shallow waters. The beginning of another great day.
Dropped our mooring line and sailed to Eagle Island — the island owned by Admiral Parry. Sir William Edward Parry is known as the first explorer to reach the North Pole. In reality, his 1827 exploration set a record as the farthest north to the 82nd parallel… 82 degrees north of the equator. His record held for 50 years. The North Pole is at the 90th latitude. His Maine summer home is prominent, now a museum. He kept his dog-sledding huskies on a nearby island; he used a bull horn to scold them and quiet their barking at night.
We row to shore, pull the dingy up on the rocks, chat with a park ranger, and visit the Admiral’s home. I hike the trail. Hard to imagine a family summering here; the Maine coast in all its splendor. Idyllic settings but cold water, rough seas, and rocky shores. Maine is for the rugged.
Off to Jewell Island for the final night. Anchor in Cocktail Cove; dinghy to shore. Walked across the island to the Punchbowl. What a spot! It’s low tide and the bowl is packed with seaweed. Back to Cocktail, met Dane, a fellow sailor, contagious smile. Gave me a Zodiac lift back to Zephyr. He plays cello in a rock band in Portland. Great vibes from him.
Day Eight, Saturday, August 31st — Jewell to Falmouth
Jewell Island , a jewel. Final day, avocado/veggie omelets with turkey bacon and toast. Then ashore I go. Another great hiking island, clearly a favorite for camping. Really nice, secluded campsites all around the island, easily accessible from Portland eight miles away.
Jewell was part of the harbor defenses of Portland in World War 2. Three gun batteries were constructed on the island. So were two Anti Motor Torpedo Boat batteries. Hiking, this time to the watchtowers and bunker, vestiges of German U-Boat defenses. Climbed up both towers for 270 degree views. Met a family from Cumberland.
Used flashlight, walked slowly and carefully through the dark catacombs of the bunker, said to be haunted. Hard to imagine this in operation as an outpost for military defenses. Troops bustling about here?
Trekked to Buoy Beach, Smuggler’s Cove, back Cocktail Cove. Eaten alive by mosquitoes. The only ones experienced all week. They got me.
Pulled up anchor and sailed back to Zephyr’s home marina, Handy Boat, in Falmouth, Maine. Final leg of the trip and out came the tuna fish held in reserve for our final sandwiches. Rob’s month-long venture was ending, his fulfillment palpable.
Cleaned up the boat; ferried to the dock by a ferryman of few words. Rob’s wife picks us up and takes us home. We have lots to share! Great to meet her; such fun. Amazing trip; amazing Thai food in Exeter.
Lucky guy I am. Another deep sensory immersion into coastal Maine. Lots of fresh air and vibrant vistas. Lots of cool water and the calming effects of the sea. Then back to reality… a shuttle to Logan, a quick flight to JFK … the LIRR to Syosset. Time in Oyster Bay. For days, I felt my body sway just like I was on board. After a while, that ended.